Did you know that most food that is fed to dogs today has extremely low nutritional content? If you feed your dog commercial dog food, you may be slowly killing your dog. Perhaps you think this is a little dramatic? Think again. If humans are fed a diet of unhealthy foods, they probably won't show any adverse signs for quite some time. But fed over many years, people will become sluggish, sick, and eventually die from degenerative diseases much earlier than they would otherwise pass from this life.
The same goes for dogs.
All commercial dog food which is extruded (cooked) at very high temperatures cannot be anything but bad for our dogs, whose natural diet in the wild is mainly fresh, raw meat. Even after dogs became domesticated, and then kept as pets, for decades they were fed home cooked food and table scraps, before anyone thought of commercialising dog food and selling cans of mush, or pieces of highly questionable biscuit-looking food called "kibble".
Dogs used to live longer than they do now.
Examine baked and kibbled foods for the presence of burned spots on the biscuits. The presence of large numbers of burned biscuits indicates that the food has been cooked at such high temperatures that the nutritients are likely to be almost non-existent.
On the other hand, if dry products are damp, soft or stale, it means that they have been improperly processed, become damp in transit, become damp during storage, or that they are old.
Dry products that become damp quickly deteriorate from the action of mold and eventually bacteria. Sometimes the only indication that mold is beginning to attack a dry food is the musty odor smelled when a bag is opened. At other times it may be seen as a white, hairy beard or a bluish-green or black velvety coating over the food. Any food found to be moldy should be destroyed immediately and never fed to dogs.
Does any of this sound like food you would eat yourself???
If not, then even though it's labelled as "dog food" and could possibly have some form of nutritional content (if you're lucky), why feed such substandard rubbish to your dog? It really can be harmful over the long term. Why else do you think so many dogs suffer from degenerative diseases like heart disease, cancer, kidney failure, and more? These diseases were previously unknown in companion animals. Now they're commonplace. And the increase in incidence of these degenerative diseases in dogs and other animals has occurred in direct proportion to the practise of giving pets raw food or table scraps, to giving them commercial pet food.
The answer?
Feed your dog a raw, or primarily raw, fresh food diet. The large part of the food should, of course, be meat. If you're not a fan of raw food, then by all means give your dog home cooked food, made from premium ingredients which you would use for your own food. Of course, you can give your dog all the fat and offcuts from the meat that you don't want. Dogs need some fat (unlike us!)
And if you really need the convenience of a pre-prepared dog food, then go for a top quality dog food - NOT one of the commercial brands found on your supermarket, or even pet store shelves. Even many vets have no idea about correct animal nutrition, believe it or not, and promote commercial dog foods that are peddled to them as "premium" food, when they're nothing of the kind.
How do you know what a superior quality dog food is? Check for both the ingredients and the method of cooking. The ingredients should be primarily meat - not meat byproducts, a small proportion only of grains of all types, and preferably some fresh vegetables, fruit or herbs. As for the cooking method - the lower the heat, the better. Don't go for anything that has been extruded (which is most kibble), or canned at high temperatures. If the method of cooking is not stated, then make further enquiries of the manufacturer, or go for one that does state the cooking method - freeze dried or baked are acceptable.
2008年9月16日星期二
2008年9月4日星期四
Frogs Swallows
Frogs are amphibians, animals that spend part of their lives under water and the remainder on land. They have long, powerful jumping legs and a very short backbone. Most Frogs have teeth (in the upper jaws only) but toads do not have any teeth.
Adult Frogs are characterised by long hind legs, a short body, webbed digits, protruding eyes and the absence of a tail. Most Frogs have a semi-aquatic lifestyle, but move easily on land by jumping or climbing. They typically lay their eggs in puddles, ponds or lakes, and their larvae, called tadpoles, have gills and develop in water. Adult Frogs follow a carnivorous diet, mostly of arthropods, annelids and gastropods. Frogs are most noticeable by their call, which can be widely heard during the night or day, mainly in their mating season.
Life cycle: Like all amphibians, Frogs spend their lives near water because they must return to the water to lay their eggs. Frogs eggs are laid in the water. When they hatch into tadpoles, they breathe with gills and swim using a tail. As they mature, they lose their tail, and they develop lungs for breathing air. In harsh climates, Frogs bury themselves in sand and mud and hibernate (sleep very deeply) through the cold winter.
Diet: Frogs eat insects, catching them with their long, sticky tongue. They also eat small fish and worms.
Classification and Evolution: Kingdom Animalia (animals), Phylum Chordata, Class Amphibia (amphibians), Order Anura (Frogs and toads). The first true Frogs evolved during the early Jurassic period, about 200 million years ago (during the time of the dinosaurs).
The distribution of Frogs ranges from tropic to subarctic regions, but most species are found in tropical rainforests. Consisting of more than 5,000 species described, they are among the most diverse groups of vertebrates. However, populations of certain Frogs species are significantly declining.
for:http://www.frogs-house.com
Adult Frogs are characterised by long hind legs, a short body, webbed digits, protruding eyes and the absence of a tail. Most Frogs have a semi-aquatic lifestyle, but move easily on land by jumping or climbing. They typically lay their eggs in puddles, ponds or lakes, and their larvae, called tadpoles, have gills and develop in water. Adult Frogs follow a carnivorous diet, mostly of arthropods, annelids and gastropods. Frogs are most noticeable by their call, which can be widely heard during the night or day, mainly in their mating season.
Life cycle: Like all amphibians, Frogs spend their lives near water because they must return to the water to lay their eggs. Frogs eggs are laid in the water. When they hatch into tadpoles, they breathe with gills and swim using a tail. As they mature, they lose their tail, and they develop lungs for breathing air. In harsh climates, Frogs bury themselves in sand and mud and hibernate (sleep very deeply) through the cold winter.
Diet: Frogs eat insects, catching them with their long, sticky tongue. They also eat small fish and worms.
Classification and Evolution: Kingdom Animalia (animals), Phylum Chordata, Class Amphibia (amphibians), Order Anura (Frogs and toads). The first true Frogs evolved during the early Jurassic period, about 200 million years ago (during the time of the dinosaurs).
The distribution of Frogs ranges from tropic to subarctic regions, but most species are found in tropical rainforests. Consisting of more than 5,000 species described, they are among the most diverse groups of vertebrates. However, populations of certain Frogs species are significantly declining.
for:http://www.frogs-house.com
2008年8月28日星期四
Paper Training A Puppy Without Ruining Your Floor, Staining Your Carpet, And Pulling Out Your Hair!
You've just adopted the cutest, tiniest teacup Chihuahua puppy! You've brought him home and got him accustomed to his surroundings.
And now it's "housetraining a new puppy" time!
Uh, oh! But, there's one small problem. You've got to keep your puppy inside or that big ol' dog next door will eat him for breakfast! Or perhaps you live in an area, such as a city, house, or apartment where there is no access to a yard or fenced-in area?
Obviously, your cute teacup puppy can't use the litter box with the cat!
Now you're sweating at the thought of urine stains on your beautiful Persian carpet or a pile of poop on your expensive exotic hardwood flooring! You can relax, because there is a solution!
Housetraining a new puppy can easily be done inside by paper training!
Here are some basic guidelines for paper training a puppy:
1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy's feeding and watering dishes.
After your puppy eats and drinks, take him to the papers. Also take your puppy to the papers, to urinate and defecate, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. He must also be taken to the papers after he chews, plays hard, and comes out of his crate.
2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.
Under the fresh papers, put a lightly soiled one. Your puppy will be encouraged to go to the bathroom by the scent left on the soiled paper.
3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.
If you fail to do so, your puppy will smell his scent on the floor and start sniffing around the edge of the paper. That's a no, no! You want to keep your puppy ON the paper and using an odor neutralizer will keep him focused on using the bathroom on the paper!
4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.
Please! Just startle him. Don't scare the poor thing half to death! This will distract your puppy and stop him from urinating. Pick him up and take him to the paper where you want him to go. Lavishly praise your puppy when he finishes going to the bathroom!
5. Don't go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.
Don't punish him by spanking, yelling, or rubbing his nose in the mess! Remember, your puppy is just a baby. He made a mistake; he did not commit the crime of the century!
6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.
Urine contains ammonia and that lovely familiar scent will invite your puppy to urinate again on that very same spot! If you are concerned about permanent odor or staining, putting plastic or waxed paper underneath the papers will help preserve your carpet or flooring.
7. You must be consistent.
Put your puppy on a schedule. If you alter the schedule or let your puppy do something differently one day and not the next, he will get confused!
8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.
Never, ever leave an untrained puppy alone in your house! Doing so is just asking for trouble!
9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say "papers!"
Then, carry him back to the papers. This will train your puppy to go to the papers when he has the desire to go to the bathroom!
Paper training a puppy requires a great deal of consistency, a little common sense, and meticulous attention to clean up. With a little effort and patience, your puppy will eventually understand what you want him to do. In time, going to the bathroom on the papers will become second nature to him.
And you will have survived paper training a puppy!
And now it's "housetraining a new puppy" time!
Uh, oh! But, there's one small problem. You've got to keep your puppy inside or that big ol' dog next door will eat him for breakfast! Or perhaps you live in an area, such as a city, house, or apartment where there is no access to a yard or fenced-in area?
Obviously, your cute teacup puppy can't use the litter box with the cat!
Now you're sweating at the thought of urine stains on your beautiful Persian carpet or a pile of poop on your expensive exotic hardwood flooring! You can relax, because there is a solution!
Housetraining a new puppy can easily be done inside by paper training!
Here are some basic guidelines for paper training a puppy:
1. Place several layers of newspaper in a spot that is away from the puppy's feeding and watering dishes.
After your puppy eats and drinks, take him to the papers. Also take your puppy to the papers, to urinate and defecate, the first thing in the morning and the last thing at night. He must also be taken to the papers after he chews, plays hard, and comes out of his crate.
2. Change the papers after each time that the puppy uses them.
Under the fresh papers, put a lightly soiled one. Your puppy will be encouraged to go to the bathroom by the scent left on the soiled paper.
3. Clean underneath the papers with an odor neutralizer.
If you fail to do so, your puppy will smell his scent on the floor and start sniffing around the edge of the paper. That's a no, no! You want to keep your puppy ON the paper and using an odor neutralizer will keep him focused on using the bathroom on the paper!
4. Clap your hands to startle your puppy if he makes a mistake.
Please! Just startle him. Don't scare the poor thing half to death! This will distract your puppy and stop him from urinating. Pick him up and take him to the paper where you want him to go. Lavishly praise your puppy when he finishes going to the bathroom!
5. Don't go BALISTIC if your puppy urinates or defecates off of the papers.
Don't punish him by spanking, yelling, or rubbing his nose in the mess! Remember, your puppy is just a baby. He made a mistake; he did not commit the crime of the century!
6. Do not use a product containing ammonia to clean up after your puppy.
Urine contains ammonia and that lovely familiar scent will invite your puppy to urinate again on that very same spot! If you are concerned about permanent odor or staining, putting plastic or waxed paper underneath the papers will help preserve your carpet or flooring.
7. You must be consistent.
Put your puppy on a schedule. If you alter the schedule or let your puppy do something differently one day and not the next, he will get confused!
8. Keep a close eye on your puppy.
Never, ever leave an untrained puppy alone in your house! Doing so is just asking for trouble!
9. Carry your puppy to different parts of your apartment or house and say "papers!"
Then, carry him back to the papers. This will train your puppy to go to the papers when he has the desire to go to the bathroom!
Paper training a puppy requires a great deal of consistency, a little common sense, and meticulous attention to clean up. With a little effort and patience, your puppy will eventually understand what you want him to do. In time, going to the bathroom on the papers will become second nature to him.
And you will have survived paper training a puppy!
2008年8月23日星期六
Teaching Old Dogs New Tricks
There are many tricks which it is fun to teach your dog. Here are some of them.
"Beg"
Put your dog on leash and tell him to "Sit!" Then hold a piece of meat or dog candy above his head. Encourage him with "Beg! Beg!" When he lifts his paws from the floor, praise him and give him the tid-bit. If he stands on his back legs, take the food away, tell him to sit and then start over again.
Or, hold your dog in a sitting-up position by lifting both paws until he learns to balance on his haunches.
"Shake"
Make your dog sit. Then hold out your hand. When you say "Shake" or "Give paw!" tap the heel of one paw lightly. At the same time, push him slightly off balance with your other hand. While you hold his paw, give him his reward.
"Play Possum"
Make your dog lie on his side. Then soothe him by stroking him gently. Keep repeating "Play Possum, Stay!" When he relaxes, take your hands away. Release him by saying "O.K.!"
"Roll Over"
After your dog learns "Play Possum!" teach him "Roll Over!" Put him on his side. Then take hold of the front and back-paws on the underside of his body. Say "Roll Over!" Then quickly flip him over. When he jumps to his feet, praise him and pat him. The circle motion used to flip your dog over later becomes the signal for this trick.
"Catch"
Use a soft ball and throw it into the air. A hard ball thrown with force directly at your dog might break a tooth. When you throw the ball say "Catch!" It may bounce off his nose a few times but he will soon learn to grab for it when he sees it coming.
"Jump!"
Buy a play hoop or make one out of wire. Put your dog on leash, slip the leash through the center of the hoop, say "Jump!" and pull him through. Hold the hoop low and say "Jump!" before you pull on the leash, so your dog will learn to jump on command.
"Carry!"
Carefully place a small object, like an old glove, a leather wallet or the handle of a small basket, in your dog's mouth and flatter him with "Aren't you smart!" Scratching his back will also help teach your dog to carry.
"Out!"
Never take things from your dog by pulling. When you want him to let go, take hold of the object with one hand and say "Out!" If he won't give it up, surprise him with a little cuff on the nose with the free hand. When he drops what he is holding, praise him and pat him.
"Dance!"
Hold something to eat above your dog's head and teach him to dance. When he stands on his back legs to reach the food, say "Dance!" and move your hand in a circle to make the dog pivot. After he turns, give him the food and praise him.
"Prayers"
Make your dog sit in front of a low bench. Place his front paws on the bench. Say "Prayers!" and gently push his head down. At the same time, offer him food between his front legs. Release him with "Amen!" or "O.K.!"
"Wait!"
Place a ball or a piece of dog biscuit on your dog's nose between his eyes. Tell him "Wait!" After a moment or two tell him "O.K.!" and see if he can catch it. This trick may take a lot of practice.
"Take A Bow!"
Take advantage of your dog's natural ways to teach additional tricks. When he stretches, say "Take a bow!"
"Speak!"
When he barks or sniffles, put your finger in the air and say "Speak!" or "Sneeze!" It won't take long for your dog to learn that whenever he makes a noise he will get a reward.
You can have great fun teaching your dog any of these tricks.
"Beg"
Put your dog on leash and tell him to "Sit!" Then hold a piece of meat or dog candy above his head. Encourage him with "Beg! Beg!" When he lifts his paws from the floor, praise him and give him the tid-bit. If he stands on his back legs, take the food away, tell him to sit and then start over again.
Or, hold your dog in a sitting-up position by lifting both paws until he learns to balance on his haunches.
"Shake"
Make your dog sit. Then hold out your hand. When you say "Shake" or "Give paw!" tap the heel of one paw lightly. At the same time, push him slightly off balance with your other hand. While you hold his paw, give him his reward.
"Play Possum"
Make your dog lie on his side. Then soothe him by stroking him gently. Keep repeating "Play Possum, Stay!" When he relaxes, take your hands away. Release him by saying "O.K.!"
"Roll Over"
After your dog learns "Play Possum!" teach him "Roll Over!" Put him on his side. Then take hold of the front and back-paws on the underside of his body. Say "Roll Over!" Then quickly flip him over. When he jumps to his feet, praise him and pat him. The circle motion used to flip your dog over later becomes the signal for this trick.
"Catch"
Use a soft ball and throw it into the air. A hard ball thrown with force directly at your dog might break a tooth. When you throw the ball say "Catch!" It may bounce off his nose a few times but he will soon learn to grab for it when he sees it coming.
"Jump!"
Buy a play hoop or make one out of wire. Put your dog on leash, slip the leash through the center of the hoop, say "Jump!" and pull him through. Hold the hoop low and say "Jump!" before you pull on the leash, so your dog will learn to jump on command.
"Carry!"
Carefully place a small object, like an old glove, a leather wallet or the handle of a small basket, in your dog's mouth and flatter him with "Aren't you smart!" Scratching his back will also help teach your dog to carry.
"Out!"
Never take things from your dog by pulling. When you want him to let go, take hold of the object with one hand and say "Out!" If he won't give it up, surprise him with a little cuff on the nose with the free hand. When he drops what he is holding, praise him and pat him.
"Dance!"
Hold something to eat above your dog's head and teach him to dance. When he stands on his back legs to reach the food, say "Dance!" and move your hand in a circle to make the dog pivot. After he turns, give him the food and praise him.
"Prayers"
Make your dog sit in front of a low bench. Place his front paws on the bench. Say "Prayers!" and gently push his head down. At the same time, offer him food between his front legs. Release him with "Amen!" or "O.K.!"
"Wait!"
Place a ball or a piece of dog biscuit on your dog's nose between his eyes. Tell him "Wait!" After a moment or two tell him "O.K.!" and see if he can catch it. This trick may take a lot of practice.
"Take A Bow!"
Take advantage of your dog's natural ways to teach additional tricks. When he stretches, say "Take a bow!"
"Speak!"
When he barks or sniffles, put your finger in the air and say "Speak!" or "Sneeze!" It won't take long for your dog to learn that whenever he makes a noise he will get a reward.
You can have great fun teaching your dog any of these tricks.
2008年8月14日星期四
Selecting the Right Breed of Dog
While there are no essential personality differences between the sexes of dogs, there is no doubt that some personality variations exist among the various breeds. Though rather minor, they are significant enough so that they should be inquired into in order that the particular breed can meet individual needs. This fact may be of special importance where there are children in the household. The disposition of an animal certainly must be compatible with the personality of the child. Some breeds have a tendency to be peppy, alert, excitable, or noisy, while others are generally quiet, lazy, or phlegmatic. Some are more likely to become one-man dogs, while others seem to want to encompass the whole world in their sphere.
There are, however, enough breeds to satisfy almost any requirement. Once the breed has been definitely decided upon, it is advisable to get in touch with a recognized kennel club agency. It is especially important that the breeder be highly recommended, for occasionally breeders have been guilty of dishonest practices, though these are the exception rather than the rule. In the final analysis, however, there are reliable and unreliable dealers in all fields and the discretion of the purchaser must ultimately decide the issue.
When the animal is purchased, a ten-day trial should be insisted upon, in order to have time to get veterinary certification of good health, and to ascertain whether the animal is of suitable disposition - that is, to find out whether the animal gets along with your family. The reliable breeder will agree unhesitatingly to such a reasonable request. Less reliable breeders will agree to a trial of only 24 to 48 hours. Since latent diseases often do not arise for several days, and since it usually takes more than a couple of days to decide whether an animal's disposition is suitable, the prospective owner is advised to proceed with extreme caution when he has only a day or two to make his final decision.
A reference list of the recognized breeds of dogs follows. The various breeds were developed to adapt these animals to different activities; to learn to distinguish one breed from another; the best method is to attend dog shows. The official publications of the American Kennel Club give detailed information on the history and standards of the various breeds.
The American Kennel Club recognizes six major classes of dog breeds, as follows:
Group one: sporting dogs.
Griffon: Wirehaired-Pointing. Pointer: German Shorthaired. Retrievers: Chesapeake Bay, Curly-Coated, Flat-Coated, Golden, Labrador. Setters: English, Gordon, Irish. Spaniels: Brittany, Clumber, Cocker, English Springer, Field, Irish Water, Sussex, Welsh Springer.
Group two: sporting dogs, hounds.
Afghan, Basset, Beagle, Bloodhound, Borzoi, Dachshund, Deer-hound (Scottish), Foxhound (American), Foxhound (English), Greyhound, Harrier, Norwegian Elkhound, Otterhound, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Saluki, Whippet, Wolfhound (Irish), Wolfhound (Russian).
Group three: working dog.
These include some of the largest breeds in the dog world. They are best suited to being used as guard dogs for police or army purposes, watchdogs, herding dogs, sled dogs, etc.
Alaskan Malamute, Belgian Sheepdog, Bernese Mountain Dog, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer, Briard, Bull-Mastiff, Collie (Rough), Collie (Smooth), Doberman Pinscher, Eskimo, German Shepherd, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Komondor, Kuvasz, Mastiff, Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog, Puli, Rottweiler, Samoyede, Schnauzer (Giant), Shetland Sheepdog, Siberian Huskie, St. Bernard, Welsh Corgi (Cardigan), Welsh Corgi (Pembroke).
Group four: terriers.
These breeds have a sporting background. They are adapted to hunting small game, especially where a considerable amount of digging is required.
Airedale, Bedlington, Border, Bull, Cairn, Dandie Dinmont, Fox (Smooth), Fox (Wirehaired), Irish, Kerry Blue, Lakeland, Lhasa, Manchester, Norwich, Schnauzer (Miniature), Schnauzer (Standard), Scottish, Sealyham, Skye, Staffordshire, Welsh, West Highland White.
Group five: toys.
These have been bred as novelty dogs and have no work or sporting function.
Affenpinscher, Chihuahua, English Toy Spaniel, Griffon (Brussels), Italian Greyhound, Japanese Spaniel, Maltese, Mexican Hairless, Papillon, Pekingese, Pinscher (Miniature), Pomeranian, Pug, Toy Manchester Terrier, Toy Poodle, Yorkshire Terrier.
Group six: nonsporting.
While some of these breeds have a sporting, guard-dog or hunting background, they are now bred mainly as pets. They include some of the most distinctive and handsome animals in the world of dogs.
Boston Terrier, Bulldog, Chow Chow, Dalmatian, French Bulldog, Keeshonden, Poodle, Schipperke.
There are, however, enough breeds to satisfy almost any requirement. Once the breed has been definitely decided upon, it is advisable to get in touch with a recognized kennel club agency. It is especially important that the breeder be highly recommended, for occasionally breeders have been guilty of dishonest practices, though these are the exception rather than the rule. In the final analysis, however, there are reliable and unreliable dealers in all fields and the discretion of the purchaser must ultimately decide the issue.
When the animal is purchased, a ten-day trial should be insisted upon, in order to have time to get veterinary certification of good health, and to ascertain whether the animal is of suitable disposition - that is, to find out whether the animal gets along with your family. The reliable breeder will agree unhesitatingly to such a reasonable request. Less reliable breeders will agree to a trial of only 24 to 48 hours. Since latent diseases often do not arise for several days, and since it usually takes more than a couple of days to decide whether an animal's disposition is suitable, the prospective owner is advised to proceed with extreme caution when he has only a day or two to make his final decision.
A reference list of the recognized breeds of dogs follows. The various breeds were developed to adapt these animals to different activities; to learn to distinguish one breed from another; the best method is to attend dog shows. The official publications of the American Kennel Club give detailed information on the history and standards of the various breeds.
The American Kennel Club recognizes six major classes of dog breeds, as follows:
Group one: sporting dogs.
Griffon: Wirehaired-Pointing. Pointer: German Shorthaired. Retrievers: Chesapeake Bay, Curly-Coated, Flat-Coated, Golden, Labrador. Setters: English, Gordon, Irish. Spaniels: Brittany, Clumber, Cocker, English Springer, Field, Irish Water, Sussex, Welsh Springer.
Group two: sporting dogs, hounds.
Afghan, Basset, Beagle, Bloodhound, Borzoi, Dachshund, Deer-hound (Scottish), Foxhound (American), Foxhound (English), Greyhound, Harrier, Norwegian Elkhound, Otterhound, Rhodesian Ridgeback, Saluki, Whippet, Wolfhound (Irish), Wolfhound (Russian).
Group three: working dog.
These include some of the largest breeds in the dog world. They are best suited to being used as guard dogs for police or army purposes, watchdogs, herding dogs, sled dogs, etc.
Alaskan Malamute, Belgian Sheepdog, Bernese Mountain Dog, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer, Briard, Bull-Mastiff, Collie (Rough), Collie (Smooth), Doberman Pinscher, Eskimo, German Shepherd, Great Dane, Great Pyrenees, Komondor, Kuvasz, Mastiff, Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog, Puli, Rottweiler, Samoyede, Schnauzer (Giant), Shetland Sheepdog, Siberian Huskie, St. Bernard, Welsh Corgi (Cardigan), Welsh Corgi (Pembroke).
Group four: terriers.
These breeds have a sporting background. They are adapted to hunting small game, especially where a considerable amount of digging is required.
Airedale, Bedlington, Border, Bull, Cairn, Dandie Dinmont, Fox (Smooth), Fox (Wirehaired), Irish, Kerry Blue, Lakeland, Lhasa, Manchester, Norwich, Schnauzer (Miniature), Schnauzer (Standard), Scottish, Sealyham, Skye, Staffordshire, Welsh, West Highland White.
Group five: toys.
These have been bred as novelty dogs and have no work or sporting function.
Affenpinscher, Chihuahua, English Toy Spaniel, Griffon (Brussels), Italian Greyhound, Japanese Spaniel, Maltese, Mexican Hairless, Papillon, Pekingese, Pinscher (Miniature), Pomeranian, Pug, Toy Manchester Terrier, Toy Poodle, Yorkshire Terrier.
Group six: nonsporting.
While some of these breeds have a sporting, guard-dog or hunting background, they are now bred mainly as pets. They include some of the most distinctive and handsome animals in the world of dogs.
Boston Terrier, Bulldog, Chow Chow, Dalmatian, French Bulldog, Keeshonden, Poodle, Schipperke.
2008年8月9日星期六
Find Out What The Best Land Iguana Habitat Is!
What is the best land iguana habitat? If you have just purchased a new land iguana then the first thing you will need to do is to create a sustainable and appropriate habitat for it to live in. Their habitat is a little different then most other iguana habitats. To find out what the best land iguana habitat is, we first need to learn about where land iguanas come from.
There are two different types of land iguanas and they both come from the archipelago of the Galapagos Islands. Darwin was of course the first person to have seen these amazing creatures in their natural habitat. The land iguana habitat on the Galapagos Islands was mostly made from rock and soil. There is of course barely any vegetation on the Islands bar half dead grass and shrubs.
Land Iguanas like all iguanas are vegetarians and eat mostly fruit and vegetables, therefore it is a good idea to make your habitat easily assessable for cleaning purposes. One of the most important things to have in your iguana's habitat is an area where water can be situated. They are in fact very good swimmers and therefore enjoy the water a lot. If you have the capacity, it's a great idea to insert a small shallow pond. If you don't wish to keep your land iguana in an enclosure then make sure you always have somewhere for your iguana to swim and bath.
The last and probably most important thing for your land iguana habitat is to have an area in your enclosure that is full of plenty of soil. Land iguanas in their natural habitat dig their own burrows in order to escape from predators. If you don't have any soil for your iguana to dig in, then it will find some place else to dig, perhaps your carpet for one!
Another great idea for your land iguana habitat is to insert a few shrubs. This will give your enclosure a fantastic look and feel that will help your iguana feel more like an iguana instead of just a normal pet. This also makes your enclosure look a little less bare and much more interesting for people to look at. Make sure the shrubs aren't too green as this will limit your iguana's potential to camouflage itself.
If you use all the information in this article, you will be sure to create a great land iguana habitat that will have your iguana feeling happy and secure.
There are two different types of land iguanas and they both come from the archipelago of the Galapagos Islands. Darwin was of course the first person to have seen these amazing creatures in their natural habitat. The land iguana habitat on the Galapagos Islands was mostly made from rock and soil. There is of course barely any vegetation on the Islands bar half dead grass and shrubs.
Land Iguanas like all iguanas are vegetarians and eat mostly fruit and vegetables, therefore it is a good idea to make your habitat easily assessable for cleaning purposes. One of the most important things to have in your iguana's habitat is an area where water can be situated. They are in fact very good swimmers and therefore enjoy the water a lot. If you have the capacity, it's a great idea to insert a small shallow pond. If you don't wish to keep your land iguana in an enclosure then make sure you always have somewhere for your iguana to swim and bath.
The last and probably most important thing for your land iguana habitat is to have an area in your enclosure that is full of plenty of soil. Land iguanas in their natural habitat dig their own burrows in order to escape from predators. If you don't have any soil for your iguana to dig in, then it will find some place else to dig, perhaps your carpet for one!
Another great idea for your land iguana habitat is to insert a few shrubs. This will give your enclosure a fantastic look and feel that will help your iguana feel more like an iguana instead of just a normal pet. This also makes your enclosure look a little less bare and much more interesting for people to look at. Make sure the shrubs aren't too green as this will limit your iguana's potential to camouflage itself.
If you use all the information in this article, you will be sure to create a great land iguana habitat that will have your iguana feeling happy and secure.
2008年8月3日星期日
The Ideal Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Identification of a Staffordshire bull terrier isn't difficult. You do not need an expert eye for this. This dog is burly and powerfully built. You would surely notice its broad head, thick neck and deep chest. The potent jaws with great muscles and undersized droopy ears complete the body contours of this English breed. A Staffordshire bull terrier might be black, brindle, white or a reddish tan. The original name of this particular breed of dogs was bull terrier. Later, it was changed to its present name. However, do not get it confused with an American Pit Bull Terrier. Although they look similar any lover of either breed could not mistake one for the other.When you bring home a dog, you want it as your lovable pet. A 'Staffy' is not only devoted to you; it also possesses a very friendly spirit and a love of children that has given the nickname of the "nanny dog".These dogs are fighters by nature and are aggressive too with other dogs. Therefore, it is to be borne in mind to keep away your 'staffy' from other same sex dogs. It becomes a mandatory rule for the 'un-neutered' male dogs. Therefore, always keep a strict vigil over cohabitation of your 'Staffy' and its companions. Two Staffies should never be left alone for long periods.While breeding a Staffordshire bull terrier, the most important consideration you have to make is its temperament. Remember, that the objective of breeding is to improve the breed. Merely because a SBT is KC registered does not mean it should be bred. The temperament of a Staffordshire bull terrier is its greatest asset so breeding should be done keeping in mind the temperament of the parents. There are also many health concerns that should be taken into consideration and dogs should be health tested before going ahead with breeding.The breed standard of Staffordshire bull terrierThe Standard refers to the 'blueprint' of Staffordshire bull terrier. This is actually the ideal representative of the breed. There are some particular features, which do not tally with the idea of a Staffordshire bull terrier. Like, white and liver colors are strictly non-acceptable ones for the 'ideal' breed. Keeping within the ideal standard there are some attributes that should be avoided when pairing dogs. Strictly, avoid a pink nose. The eye color is preferably black. Avoid a pink pair of eyes, unless they are enclosed with a white coat with short ears. Complete drop or full prick will be considered a defect. The 'model' tallness (at shoulder) and related weight is 14 to 16 inches/28 to 38 pounds (bitches, 24 to 34 pounds). Go for tight and clean lips. A tail that is too stretched or badly curled is an imperfection and the legs should be parallel when viewed from behind. Of course, these are attributes that are desired when showing Staffordshire Bull Terriers, and again to meet the idea standards of the breed. Any dog that is born with these traits are loving and adorable pets just like all the rest.Remember, a 'Staffy Bull', is very intelligent, brave and a faithful dog. It could become an indispensable part of your family if trained well.
2008年7月27日星期日
Dog Grooming - Nails, Ears and Teeth
Dog grooming includes not only brushing and bathing your puppy or dog but continues with his nails, ears and teeth. If these are not taken care of, there is a potential for health problems. Think of these dog grooming points as preventive health care and a way to keep the vet bills down.A dog's nails must be trimmed every so often. Depending upon the surfaces you dog walks on, you may find you need to trim every three to four weeks or even more often. You dog's dewclaws may need more frequent trimming than the rest of his nails.Begin trimming a puppy's nails when he is about 10 - 12 weeks old. As with the rest of dog grooming, you may need to start with small sessions and work up. Start with one paw and do just that. If he is very aggravated with that, start with just one toe. You may even find you have to start with just holding one paw and one toe. Remember to praise him when he does allow you and to provide treats and play time after the session. Make your puppy look forward to his dog grooming.In between bathing sessions, you can clean around your dog's eyes with a damp cotton ball. Wipe from the corners outward just as you were taught to do for your own eyes.Clean your dog's ears only when you see visible dirt. Never use cotton-tipped swabs. Use a cotton ball dampened with a dog-ear cleaning solution, baby or mineral oil or hydrogen peroxide. If there is a bad smell or signs of redness, your dog may require a trip to the vet. Keep an eye out for mites as well. Dogs with droopy ears may have more ear problems and need more cleaning due to lack of airflow into the ear.Lastly, dog grooming continues with brushing your dog's teeth. To start the process with your puppy you may need to start by simply massaging his lips in a clockwise manner with your finger for a couple weeks followed by massaging his gums and teeth for a couple weeks. Then you can use a dog toothbrush, a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger or a soft round-tipped human toothbrush to begin massaging his teeth and gums. Finally you can begin using dog toothpaste. Do not use human toothpaste. If you find dog toothpaste too expensive, do as people used to do and make a paste of baking soda and water to brush his teeth.
订阅：
博文 (Atom)